In to Dublin with Andrew. Our first stop was the National
Museum of Ireland, which has 4 branches – we were going to the Museum of
Archaeology. This is a magnificent 19th-century building which would
be worth a look even without the exhibitions.
What a fantastic place. We saw
prehistoric artefacts including a stone-age long boat.
Ireland has large areas of bog,
where under very specific conditions, things can be preserved for an astounding
length of time. Several human bodies have been found in recent centuries, and
modern testing shows them to be over2000 years old. The museum has these
on display which is fascinating if a little grotesque. You can’t help wondering
how those people would feel if they knew this is where they would end up.
There are many beautiful pieces of
Celtic art.
Some Viking artefacts.
Mediaeval Irish Christian art.
For some reason, a splendid
ancient Egyptian section.
Some of the most highly valued
Irish treasures including the Tara brooch and the Ardagh chalice.
And an astonishing amount of gold
jewellery.
This is an amazing museum, and
it’s free to visit. Of course, they gratefully accept donations.
We had a picnic lunch in Merion
Square (still no need for those rain coats!) and headed back to Trinity College
where we saw the Book of Kells 2 days ago, this time to visit the Science
Gallery – a small but fascinating place where the current exhibition is about
light and illusions.
Nearby, we popped into this small
shop, Sweny's Pharmacy. It is mentioned in Ulysses, by James Joyce, and part of it has been kept as it appeared at that time.
We walked along the Liffey River,
which flows through the middle of the city. People seem to identify very
strongly as “North-Siders” or “South-Siders” – Malahide is North of the city
but too far away to fit the label!
This tower, near the river, is
tapered so when you stand near it looking up, it seems to be infinitely tall!
It was getting towards evening so
we wandered along to Georges Dock where they are celebrating Oktoberfest.
Sitting in the evening sun with our German food and drinks was a very pleasant
way to take a break.
Tonight in Dublin is very special
– it is Culture Night, an annual event where all sorts of museums, galleries,
historic buildings and other culturally significant places stay open late. Most
have special events and the places that normally charge an admission are free
for the evening. We planned to go to Dublinia, a museum of Viking and Mediaeval
history, but when we got there we found that about half of Dublin seemed to
have had the same idea! The queue was down the street and around the corner.
This museum is built on a street which has existed since Viking times, and on the
footpath outside they have marked the outlines of where a Viking house once
stood.
We didn’t want to spend Culture
Night in a queue - instead, we went across the road to Christ Church Cathedral. This one of the of the oldest buildings in Dublin, with some parts built in the 11th and 12th centuries. It was quite busy, with
musicians performing outside and guided tours inside. We went downstairs to the
crypt...
This was a fairly dark space, a
bit hard to find your way around. Just what you want in a crypt, really.
They have quite a lot to see in
the crypt – some early Christian
treasures –
Some costumes from a show called
The Tudors which is/was filmed in the area –
Some silly photo opportunities –
But their most famous (and
peculiar) item is a case containing a mummified cat and rat, which were found
inside the organ!
When we left the cathedral, we
strolled through the Temple Bar area (along with the other half of Dubliners
who weren’t queuing up for Dublinia), past old pubs, lots of buskers, craft
markets and a whole heap of people.
Our final event for the day was a
Culture Night must-see: the Dead Zoo. This is the local nickname for another
branch of the National Museum, the Museum of Natural History. It is open for
free every day, but seeing it at night is definitely the way to go, because
this is one creepy museum! Like the Museum of Archaeology, it dates from the 19th
century, but unlike it, the Dead Zoo has not been updated since. As well as a
museum of natural history, it is a museum of museums, where you can see what
these places were like in Victorian times!
This museum is almost nothing but dead,
stuffed animals in glass cases. And it is huge!
It even has an Australian section,
which includes a thylacine! Oddly labelled as a “Tasmanian Wolf”. And the
koalas are labelled as “koala bears”.
We left when they started to close
up (you definitely don’t want to be in there when the lights are out!) and by
the time we got back to Malahide, we were just about asleep on our feet.
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